How Do I Get Rid Of Algae In My Pool?
HUGE question.
First let us determine the type of algae. GREEN; YELLOW; BLACK?
Green and yellow (or mustard) algae can typically be treated the same way. Before I begin to treat it, however, I like to find what caused the algae in the first place. Most of the time it is caused by either a dirty filter; chemical imbalance (ph too high, chlorine too low); or not an adequate amount of time the water is circulating. Another common issue is an internal problem with the filter, (broken manifold; cracked cartridges).
To test an internal problem, turn your pump on. Pour about 1 cup [easyazon_link asin=”B00JFUJUNY” locale=”US” new_window=”yes” nofollow=”yes” tag=”lucpoo-20″ add_to_cart=”default” cloaking=”yes” localization=”yes” popups=”yes”]granular chlorine[/easyazon_link] into the skimmer. Be sure the pump basket is clean so the chlorine doesn’t get trapped in the debris. Watch the return lines in the pool or spa. After one or two minutes, if you see small specks of the chlorine returning to the pool, then there is a problem inside your filter. (See troubleshooting/filters)
Test your chemicals. If the chlorine reading is 1.0 or below, you need to raise it. If your ph is 7.8 or higher, you need to lower it. Check your conditioner/cyanuric acid levels. (See chemicals for specifics). Many homeowners use more chlorine than necessary because they are not aware of the importance of conditioner and the money it will save them.
Assuming there is not a problem with your filter, your chemicals are balanced and algae is still resistant, how many hours is your system running? Technically, a filter should run for six hours to turn the water over one time (turnover rate). Cutting back on the amount of time the pool is circulating to save electricity is not the wisest decision. Keeping water sanitized and bacteria free should be your # 1 priority.
There are many variables when trying to determine the specific cause of visible algae; water temperature, bather load, size of filter, horsepower of motor, how many years the same water has been in the pool, how big your is pool vs. how capable the equipment is to handle the amount of water. Everything needs to be taken into consideration.
That being said… If you wake up one morning and see algae on the walls of your pool:
1) Brush it so it becomes suspended (loose algae is easier to kill)
2) Add 2-4 gallons liquid chlorine. You can use a shock treatment if you want; it’s just more expensive.
3) Bring your ph down to 7.2-7.6
4) Keep your system running until the algae is off the wall and settled on the bottom of the pool. Vacuum dead algae, and then *clean the filter.
* If your filter has not been cleaned for a couple of months, clean the cartridges before step 1, then clean it again after the dead algae is vacuumed.
If the algae will not brush off the wall, using an algaecide could help. Be sure you purchase one specifically for green or mustard algae. Often in hard water areas, calcium will create a hard film over the algae. Only when the ph is lowered and the calcium begins to loosen will you be able to actually get to the algae. Sometimes using a stain treatment additive will help speed up the process of softening calcium. If the algae will not brush off after one week using these steps, you may want to consider an acid wash.
BLACK ALGAE TREATMENT: For floors
Black algae is very resistant and must be treated aggressively. Algae visible on the floor is treated differently than spots on the walls. We will begin with those found on the floor of the pool. Black algae usually grows in places that it can ‘grab’ onto such as pitted or chipped plaster, pool lights and return outlets. It has a shiny, smooth covering which must be scratched off with a metal brush before chemically treating it. Be aware that if you scratch the surface and don’t treat it immediately, those loose particles will attach themselves to another area of your pool and soon you will have an infestation. It is essential that black algae is controlled at the earliest sighting.
1) Scratch any and all visible spots using a metal brush. It is important that the chemical can penetrate the algae.
2) Keep the filter OFF. Using a granular chlorine called Tri-chlor, (trichloro-s-triazinetrione), for white plaster pools only, sprinkle it on top of and around the affected areas. If the chlorine has drifted away from the intended spot, simply use your pool brush and gently brush the chlorine until it rests on the algae. (A little trick I learned is to set your pole over the spot and pour the chlorine down the pole; it will land right where you want it).
3) Keeping the pump off, allow this to remain undisturbed for 24 hours.
4) The next day I like to go back and, using the metal brush again, scrape away any remaining spots.
5) Allow time for the algae to settle completely, and then vacuum the pool. If any algae remains you can let the chlorine set another night or use a liquid algaecide. (See treatment for walls)
6) It is very important that after you vacuum the pool, CLEAN THE FILTER. Those spores are very resilient and will come back to make your pool experience miserable if not eradicated to the best of your ability.
BLACK ALGAE TREATMENT: For walls
1) The principle is the same for floors but the chemical is different. The obvious
reason is that chlorine in granular form cannot stick to the sides of the pool and liquid chlorine is not potent enough to fight black algae.
2) Scratch the surface of the algae. (See above for specifics).
3) With the filter ON, pour the recommended amount as directed by the manufacturer of the product you are using. Keep the system running per directions. During this period you can continue to scrape the spots.
4) The next day, vacuum the pool and CLEAN THE FILTER.
The nice thing about the liquid algaecide is that it coats the surface of the plaster which helps prevent future outbreaks. Be sure to purchase an algaecide specifically for treating black algae. They usually are silver or copper based.
